South Korean born designer Eudon Choi, initially trained as a menswear designer in Seoul, where he acquired an in-depth knowledge of tailoring techniques. Eudon as he enters his fifth year, is one of very few designers who possesses the ability to translate his strong background in menswear into womenswear, and for his Autumn/Winter 2017 collection he managed to achieve this effortlessly, with his designs this upcoming season being very utilitarian while exploring sartorial silhouettes and fusing it with crisp tailoring, yet Eudon still managed to keep his signature feminine sensibility.
His AW17 collection, was inspired by the work of Adolf Loos, who was an Austrian and Czech architect and influential European theorist of modern architecture and a pioneer of the modernist movement. Eudon Choi’s collection commanded the attention of everyone watching on as the models sashayed down the runway to the sound of the perfectly timed cow bell and drum fused music. The collection focuses on Loos’ ethos for the elimination of adornment and captures his minimalist attitudes towards design.
Eudon paid homage to the work of the architect Adolf Loos who was a significant theorist of modern architecture. Loos’ essay ‘Ornament and Crime’ explored the idea of the deletion of ornament from everyday objects. Choi finds inspiration in Loos’ writing and translates this into clothing. He replicates plush interiors and sharp exteriors in his use of luxurious fabric and lavish fastenings, combined with the precise lines of his tailoring that he is well known for. Eudon took the words of a man who believed creating something just for the sake of ornamental purposes was a crime, and translated it into wearable designs, to grace us later this year.
The chosen colour palette was so calming and complimented the surroundings beautifully. It was quite muted with neutral tones at the forefront, with the odd deliberate vibrant piece, the use of orange and cornflower blue complimented the use of grey and khaki which was consistent in the collection as a whole, the use of pinstripes made it all so work-ready while editorial at the same time. The use of silk and shift dressed added a softness to the more structured pieces.
Eudon’s purposeful draping of knitwear worn half on over the shoulder, oversized pieces and puffer jackets that rested on one side of the body added another dimension to the show that was simply genius, adding softness in the right places. Layering was a reminiscent feature with this collection, which requires the right dose of creativity and style, that I believe takes a true creative to really know how to ty an outfit together, and it’s evident that Eudon has achieved this time and time again. His use of trainers to go with each look just perfectly accompanied the collection, I could envision professionals on the commute with their heels safely encased in their city bag. Every obviously detail deliberate yet was executed so effortlessly. Eudon is known for his attention to detail.
The power of fabric rang true as Eudon made the collection showcase his mastery of capturing movement in stiff fabrics through tailoring and creating flattering silhouettes from oversized pieces that drape across the body, and over-sized turtle necks, and puffed sleeves, showing proportion and celebrating it rather than completely disguising it. He is hands down one of the best designers out there when it comes to making crisp cottons look cool and wearable. He took every day work-ready/city professional pieces and gave them a new purpose, dare I say a new lust for life.
This season Eudon Choi has joined forces with global bag brand Decke to debut a range directly inspired by the ‘Villa Müller’, one of Loos’ most iconic works. The quality of the leather and unique hardware show a definite comparison to the fittings and fixtures within the Müller home. The collaboration encapsulates both the classic elegance of Decke and Choi’s refined attitude.
Each of the looks were paired with simple, clean scraped back ponytails, with each model wearing barely there make-up and a bold burnt orange lip, and deliberate bushy brows, tying each look together as Eudon Choi translated Adolf Loo’s essay of Ornament and Crime, the elegance of simplicity, simply!
By Li Thane-Kitson