Paul Costelloe Opened  London Fashion Week with an Equestrian-Inspired Masterpiece

At exactly 9 AM, Paul Costelloe unveiled his Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, marking the official start of London Fashion Week. The show took place at The Waldorf Hilton Hotel, a venue that has become a signature backdrop for Costelloe’s presentations. With its timeless elegance, the setting seamlessly complemented the designer’s vision—one steeped in heritage, craftsmanship, and modern aristocratic flair.

This season, Costelloe turned to the world of dressage for inspiration, blending the refined aesthetics of equestrianism with the bold glamour of 1980s countryside fashion. The result? A dynamic interplay of structure and fluidity, where heritage fabrics, dramatic silhouettes, and precision tailoring reigned supreme.

he runway unfolded like a scene from a modern-day Downton Abbey, reimagined through the lens of high fashion. Models strode out in jodhpur-shaped culottes, nipped-in riding jackets, and voluminous coats, each piece exuding the poised elegance of an equestrian champion. Power shoulders made a strong return, reinforcing Costelloe’s love for bold, statement tailoring.

Counterbalancing the structure were romantic, free-flowing elements—billowing sleeves, tiered ruffles, and delicate floral appliqués added softness to the collection. Hacking jackets paired with mini kilts, while high-neck ruffled blouses peeked out from under oversized tweed coats, creating a juxtaposition of masculine structure and feminine movement.

The color palette embraced autumn’s richness—deep berry reds, chestnut browns, earthy greens, and soft oat tones. Each look felt as though it had been plucked from the English countryside, yet tailored for the wardrobes of modern-day aristocrats and urban power dressers alike.

As always, fabrication was at the heart of Costelloe’s storytelling. The designer paid homage to his Celtic roots, incorporating Harris Tweed from Scotland and Magees of Ireland, adding depth and authenticity to the collection. Heavy wool coats were sculpted with dramatic volume, while structured capes and cap-sleeved blazers played with proportion and movement.

Florals, a recurring motif in Costelloe’s work, were seen in intricate appliqué detailing, offering a delicate contrast to the robustness of the tweeds and wools. The interplay of hard and soft, rigid and flowing created a visually striking, deeply wearable collection.

The hair and beauty direction mirrored the equestrian inspiration—sleek, side-parted ponytails woven into elegant braids echoed the discipline of dressage, while dewy skin and softly contoured cheekbones kept the makeup understated yet polished.

Accessories added the finishing touches: structured caps, knee-high leather boots, and polished riding glovesreinforced the equestrian aesthetic, while waist-cinching belts and delicate pearl accents provided a nod to aristocratic femininity.

Among the front-row guests was supermodel Jodie Kidd, a longtime admirer of Costelloe’s work, alongside a mix of industry insiders, fashion editors, and brand loyalists who rewarded the collection with a standing ovation.

As the final look swept down the runway, one thing was certain—Paul Costelloe never fails to leave us wanting more. Each season, he transports us into a world of timeless elegance and masterful storytelling, making us wonder what his next muse will be and how he will flawlessly reinterpret it. With every collection, he keeps us on the edge of our seats, eagerly anticipating the next chapter in his ever-evolving fashion narrative.

Written  By Angela Gaote
Photograhy by Olu Ogunshakin