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Tara Lee Tillett, Fashion Designer & Owner of Tara Lee Belize
Roaming the showrooms of London Fashion Week Men’s 2016 reveals a sea of creativity as senior fashion designers and emerging fashion designers, among others, display their goods to buyers and press. As member of press/fashion designer while wandering the showroom floor, one display sets itself apart. A mature looking woman at a vender’s table with a rack of scarves and ties behind her. Although she looks a little out of place, the look on her face is very inviting and cheerful. Personally drawn to the accessories on the table, but more so to her, the thought pops in that she can’t possibly be selling these items, she must be just looking. However, upon walking up to her, she quickly introduces herself and her husband, “I am Rosemary Goodenough and this is my husband, Michael” she says in a manner that is super open, friendly and warm. She explains that these are her goods. Humbled to see that she had not hired someone to oversee her sales floor made an even bigger impression that as a more mature woman, she was even designing and displaying at London Fashion Week Men’s. London Fashion Week evokes hip, trendy, a scene for the outrageous and young creatives, yet here is this older, mature, conservative women with her darling husband wearing her tie and selling her accessories. Amazing! Enquiring about how she got into the fashion business, she explains that she is an artist for sculpting and painting. But what has this to do with fashion? She digitally transfers her images onto textile, thus creating her ties and scarves for her brand: Rosemary Goodenough. Delving further regarding her take on business in the fashion industry and from a more mature feminine perception, starting a new venture later in life, and her creative passions resulted in the following exchange. Interview: Tara Lee Tillett (TLT) and Rosemary Goodenough (RG) artist and designer of Rosemary Goodenough.
Rosemary and Husband Michael
Q. TLT: Why were you interested in the fashion industry coming from a background as a painter and sculpture?
A. RG: There are two types of artist, those who work in one medium and those who cross into many different mediums and I fall into the latter category. My curiosity was raised by overhearing someone at an exhibition of my paintings and sculptures say “if that painting was a scarf I would wear it”. I thought it would be fascinating to see one of my paintings on a moving surface and using Photoshop to change the colours of the painting whilst remaining true to the original composition. It opened another creative outlet to me and I have loved every moment of it.
Q. TLT: What is the difference in your thought as describing yourself as an "artist" rather than a "fashion designer”?
A. RG: Being an artist is very different to being a fashion designer as my passion goes into my original oil painting and my curiosity then allows me to develop that painting into fashion design. It is very important that I don’t paint for my brand I paint because I am an artist. I don’t want to paint to design as that would make my painting more mannered and less passionate and therefore to me less interesting.
Q. TLT: What is your muse for designing your current collection?
A. RG: My husband Michael, always!
Q. TLT: Who gave you the opportunity to sell your goods in their store, how did that open the door for your brand?
A. RG: The legendary Rita Britton was my first stockist which was an incredible honour and because she is so revered in the fashion industry and knows everyone it opened doors for me that could have taken years to find. Many years ago she asked me to have an exhibition of my paintings in her shop so she knew me as an artist and was very interest in me translating my art into fashion items.
Q. TLT: Why ties, scarves and pocket squares? Was it easier? Cheaper? Were you always interested in these types of accessories?
A. RG: Not easier and certainly not cheaper as I only use the best quality fabrics and craftspeople in our manufacturing processes. My scarves and pocket squares are made in Italy near Lake Como and all have hand-rolled hems and my ties are woven and handmade in England. I love accessories as they complete an outfit and can tone down something vivid or bring something very simple to life.
Q. TLT: Why the medium silk, wool, cotton, cashmere? What is it about these textiles that make you creative?
A. RG: Because they are so beautiful and luxurious. I am only interested in quality which has to be superb in order to be included in my brand.
Q. TLT: Being a more mature women entrepreneur in the accessory apparel sector in fashion has it been more difficult and/ or challenging to keep up with trends? And being a woman fashion designer creating men's accessories? Has there been any downfalls to the fashion industry and if so, explain one?
A. RG: Absolutely not, it has been the exact opposite, the best designer are trend setters not trend followers and I was thrilled when Trendstop took one of my scarves, ‘ Mad Red Flowers V’ to Magic Las Vegas as a perfect example of a bang on trend luxury British fashion piece. We have been very lucky and have received some amazing press many of whom see maturity as an asset not a disadvantage as life experience gives one a very refined eye and way of creating. It’s great being a woman creating men’s accessories and huge fun and I’ve never received a negative remark about it, quite the opposite in fact. I can’t think of any particular downfalls in the fashion industry, it’s been a fantastic experience for me, I love it and of course a lot of women buy too for their partners but also for themselves.
Q. TLT: What makes Rosemary Goodenough different then what else is out there?
A. RG: Rosemary Goodenough is completely different to everything else that is out there as all the pieces are from my own fine art and no other designer has access to my work except though licencing agreements and collaborations which we enjoy very much. My ties are unique, Paul Alger, international director of the UK Fashion & Textile Association said I’m the first person to redesign the tie for 150 years-It took a woman to do that which is fantastic.
Q. TLT: As I read your bio; you spoke on how it was difficult to create the particular tie and knot you wanted, why didn't you stop, what made you continue?
A. RG: I am a very steadfast person and don’t give up easily especially when there is something at the back of my mind telling me that there is something special there and if I just stick at it and keep thinking and keep working, I will find the answer, and thankfully I did find it.
Q. TLT: What advice would you give other fashion designers and/or artists out there who want to get into the industry or want to start another venture in their life?
A. RG: Try to find someone in the industry you are interested in whose advice you can ask, ideally not a friend so you will get realistic responses to your questions. Think very hard about the questions you want to ask and phrase them neutrally so you don’t try to steer the answer you want to receive and then very, very important, listen to the answer! It is amazing how many people think they have solved a problem by asking a question when in fact, that is the beginning of the solution not the end. The end is the answer and how you then consider its implications.
Q. TLT: Lastly, what does it mean to you to have a creative job and get paid for it? What does it mean to you to express yourself using the arts as a platform of expression?
A. RG: It means everything. I find it absolutely wonderful when someone I have never met and never will meet makes a decision to buy one of my pieces be it art or fashion, it is a huge compliment and I appreciate it enormously. There are a lot of artists out there and a lot of fashion designers and there is no reason why someone should choose my work rather than someone elses so my role is to respect that buyer, never to be careless and do my very very best to make a beautiful piece that will give them great pleasure.
You can find out more about Rosemary Goodenough here:www.rosemarygoodenough.co.uk
Written By: Tara Lee Tillett
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Menestho with a solid focus on sustainable manufacturing and using cruelty-free materials, combining on trend designs with high-quality and organic materials.
Ready to wear, luxury pieces is what Menestho boasts with their collections, the name alone is a sensational one. Menestho was born out of myths and legends. The daughter of Oceanus, the Titan of the Sea. Menestho is the nymph of the water. The use of only organic fabrics is due to Menestho being a creature of nature, and what a great way to honour that with the idea of looking glam while supporting green and ethical practices. Menestho is made in Europe but recently expanded to the US, available to purchase online, and at a moderate price point that rivals today’s high-street favourites. Menestho is known for both everyday wear as well as destination wear. The pieces of the line combine bright hues, with interesting patterns ranging from floral designs to geometric shapes and more.
Maintaining a focus on form and function, Menestho creates luxury wearable garments that are comfortable, versatile and easy to care for, making them perfect for the modern woman that’s always on the go. Manufactured solely in the UK, the brand speaks to the spirit of travel, beauty, and nature which are seen effortlessly through its pieces.
The use of eco-friendly fabrics like Bamboo, Hemp & cruelty-free Silk all sourced in Europe, and exclusive prints makes Menestho a preferred label among mindful fashion enthusiasts. The fabrics used have some very interesting characteristics, while still focusing on form and function, the bamboo mimics the appearance of organza, reduces odor, it is highly absorbent, lightweight, keeps you cool, and is easy to care for. Hemp is very breathable, wrinkles less than linen, comfortable to wear. Cruelty-free silk has the same properties as silk, soft and fresh, but the silk moth develops fully before the production begins.
Mystical Gardens, the new Spring/Summer collection is said to be inspired by key elements of Nymph’s garden. Showcasing beautiful bandeaus, daring halters, dramatic harem pants, skimming full length skirts, sensually tailored jackets, all offering a bespoke luxury fit for any occasion. Their exclusive prints of lemon and pomegranate capitalize this season combined with high quality fabrics. Fluid lines, dreamy floaty cuts, vibrant patterns complete this ready to wear collection.
Founded by Creative Director Vicky Grivas, with her Degree in Fashion Management, Vicky realized there was a lack of availability for eco-friendly, ethical Ready-to-wear fashion. Menestho was created to fill that void, by merging her fresh fashion aesthetic inspired by her own travels and lifestyle with practices in line with her values.
Fashion forward and eco-friendly ethics go hand in hand with this brand, something which I believe will take them far, I mean why wouldn’t you want to look you look great with pieces that were created with care and the environment in mind.
Written by by Li Thane-Kitson
For more information: www.menestho.com
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MCM x Christopher Raeburn debuted their digitally astonishing “capsule collection” for Spring/Summer 2017 titled, “Made to Move.” On June 11th, the collection was presented at the Grand Connaught Rooms, as a part of London Collections: Men.
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Rohmir’s Vienne Imperiale collection was said to be a celebration of the opera glamour of the eternal imperial style of the beautiful city. Rohmir are known for their collections being a plethora of feminine, eloquent dresses and tailored suits. Vienne Imperiale, lived up to its upper class name with an opulent line up that made expert use of texture and varied fabrics. Which is no surprise, considering that founder and designer Olga Roh hails from Russian nobility. Both a former model and academic, with a PhD from the University of Bern, she has brains as well as beauty, combining a love of glamour with an acute business sense.
Italian influences are a key and running concept throughout this collection. The colour palette used this season, was as regal as the silhouettes, emerald greens, ruby reds, black and gold. By using the softest faux fur, lace and velvet detailed with statement brooches and bold necklaces. Dresses appeared in elegant oxblood and bottle green but it was shades of black with regal gold detail that dominated. Lace trousers matched with sheer and gold tipped velvet capes delivered the drama, European style.
The models hair was plaited then pinned into a traditional style, embellished with pearls, then intricately twisted into a regal up-do, again highlighting the almost princess-esque nature of the collection and the plait adorned their heads almost like a tiara, while the make-up was kept rather neutral, with bold brows with a pink stained lip and dark, smoky eyes and false lashes. The epitome of Italian glamour.
Backstage ahead of the show, the buzz was euphoric, there’s so much stigma with models looking moody and being underweight, but these models were smiling, laughing and joking, it was a delightful atmosphere to be a part of, and they all looked truly radiant and of a healthy weight.
Olga herself was beaming and so full of energy and very down to earth, even seemingly looking very relaxed. The catwalk was flawless and the pieces dripped elegance and sophistication. The live opera performance added an air of emotive grace to the show, and Olga’s daughter closed the show alongside the Opera, which received a well-deserved standing ovation for the collection and the performance alike.
The show entitled ‘Vienne Imperiale’ boasted ideas of grandeur from the outset and it was safe to say, that the show did not disappoint. The slow and sultry affair was as grand and as exquisite as promised from the title. Models slowly glided down the catwalk, rather than walk, to the soothing rhythm of the orchestral music and live opera singer. This is Vienna no compromises made.
Written by Li Thane-Kitson
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When it comes to red carpet events, the focus tends to fall on the dresses – so much so that it wouldn’t be unfair to say that such events are as much about the fashion as they are anything else.
And, given the amount of attention we give to what the celebs wear, it’s no surprise. Photographers will wait hours to get a shot of a celebrity in a designer gown and magazines can’t wait to rate and slate the choices. But no outfit – especially one for such an important occasion – would be complete without the right accessories.
It’s something Paris Hilton, the socialite and great-granddaughter of Conrad Hilton, knows well.
For the amfAR Cinema Against AIDS Gala 2016, the star proved her royal status as she dazzled in Avakian High Jewellery. Choosing a classic wrap-around bangle set with diamonds from the brand’s signature “Victory” Collection, Paris matched it with an Art-Deco pair of earrings set with white enamel, pink morganite and diamonds.
It’s not an easy styling trick to pull off, but Paris’s jewels perfectly complimented the star’s heavily embellished gown without fighting it for the limelight.
The 23rd amfAR Gala took place at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, just outside of Cannes. The star-studded event raises money for AIDs research and this year saw Katy Perry perform for an A-list audience.
View the Avakian collections at www.avakian.com
Written by Jodie Dewberry.