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- By: Monica Cummings
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This time last week our team was thrusted in to the midst of Africa Fashion Week's positive furore, our third one to date. This is AFWL's fifth year on the scene; showcasing over 300 designers and many exhibitors, the food was lush, the queues were long, with so many amazing textures and prints, wax dyes and shapes we were spoilt for choice. There were live performers and a serious DJ. I finally learned all the words to my favourite Afro Beats tune 'pull over' by Kcee and Wizkid. As I tapped my feet to the funky percussion, the catwalk lit up with a very diverse range and interesting themes. Africa Fashion Week hits many cities across the globe. Cities for this year include Geneva, New York and Amsterdam. So many shows to cover!
Steve Mandy's SMD products and collection grabbed our attention. Steve is from South Africa and uses bleach marking, fabric ink and sun-activated dye. Steve, to our delight, drew directly on the dress during the catwalk show to reflect how his garments have a no fuss, ready-to-wear approach for your walk-in wardrobe. Comfort and every day wear is his trademark. Definitely perfect attire for a chilled day sipping on some Beyerskloof pinotage in Cape Town.
Angolan designer Soraya da Piedade who also has presence in Brazil's collection was made up of elegant pieces, bold prints, layering and striking lengths. There was a lot of detail and emphasis on the shoulders. This oil-rich country will supply a good domestic demand for her designs, Angolans love to shop. Afro Brazilian identity is currently being re-explored and reignited. We would love to know if she has showcased her collections in the predominantly Afro-Brazilian coastal city of Bahia, home to a slightly smaller carnival than Rio and also home to Camdombler spiritual African rituals (which can be traced back to the Yoruba religions of Nigeria).
Mary Martin's frocks were stunning. Mary was honoured last year as best International designer for 2014 she is self-taught and a true autodidact, her trademark fitted gowns with flambouyant chiffon layering have proven popular at her shows in Mayfair, London. She is still studying in this city of innovation and hangs out with the likes of actor Idris Elba and UK TV presenter Reggie Yates. Mary represents Ghana and the UK.
Representing the resource-rich country of the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) was brand Alisha. Both founders are based in Europe (Brussels and Amsterdam respectively). The Alisha red dress with white doves representing peace was particularly contextual and thought-provoking with its circular collar and ideal length, equally the long black dress embellished with leather and gold reflected the innovation and vibrancy that these two designers are made of. One can't help but get drawn in to the underlying messages in the designs.
Thora Jewels showcased some bright, fun, hand-crafted accessories; using leather, gemstones and crystals all the statement, bespoke designs represented distinct individuality and eye-catching boldness. Thora's online page is very user-friendly for purchases, the Thora Jewels shop is based in Hatton Gardens, the jewellery and luxe watch hub in London.Theodora Dania (Thora's designer and creative director) has a large following in the Nigerian diaspora.
Tangerine designs were very appealing to the colourist's eye, the sorbet hue dresses of varying lengths came with some frills and block panel cutouts which formed some interesting shapes. Based in Abuja and run by Ibee Egbuson, Ibee left a dull 9 - 5 work rut and lacklustre commute four years ago to enter business management and the fashion industry, this brand has gained a reputation for funky, easy to wear and simple designs.
These were just a few designers which caught our eye, there was so much talent in the building (Olympia/Earls Court). The craftsmanship and quality of the showcase on the day was exemplary. The themes and innovation, solid. The Fashion thirst team will do a separate piece on our favourite Kenyan/Swedish based designer Njema Helena because we have fallen in love with her prints and patterns and also because she has a special story and a particular journey to tell.
We'd like to give a special thanks to Caroline Beyll, Sarah Arthman and Tumila for their contributions in addition to our hard-working photographers. There is so much to discover about African style and designs, rapper Fuse ODG has summed it up best (this is the New Africa) TINA. Hashtag # TINA.
Written By Monica Cummings
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Paris Haute Couture week has finally ended and we are still mesmorised by the Autumn/Winter collections 2015/16 for the House of Versace, it is still lingering in our minds. We saw the likes of Karlie Kloss on the catwalk during the Atelier show and 19 year old beauty, Kendall Jenner. Kendall strutted her stuff down the runway in an intricate-looking dress, her latest Instagram post has received the most downloads in Instagram history, no filters, no hashtags # or posing or pouting fish lips it seems that authenticity works ! Au naturelle.
Veteran model Naomi Campbell sat beside Irina Shayk and watched the Olympian goddess-type dresses, Greek nymph look and the random sun dance native/pocohontas vibes glide by. Our fave Brit model Rosie Huntingdon-Whiteley turned up in a black sheer dress and observed the thigh-high slits, exposed backs, short embellished dresses and sweaters with beads sewn on from the sidelines. The dresses on display streamed down the runway as fast as the dwindling reserves in the Greek treasury, some of the dresses were made of pure chiffon and premium quality lace and as to be expected the Italian craftmanship was second to none.
The Fashion Thirst team was particularly excited when presented with snazzy, flesh-coloured corsets, the subtle yellow silk flowers induced orgasmic cries from those seated behind us and now with the recurring theme throughout Paris fashion weeks, the catwalk was expected to be full of garnish and dressings, in Donatella's case it was 25,000 encased orchids which complemented this youthful, colourful, positive and upbeat collection. Let's hope the Olympian dresses provoke more empathy for the Greek crisis. Let the collection invoke a positive outlook. Opa !
Written By Monica Cummings
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At Men's Fashion Week Paris there were 2000 lovely-smelling rose bushes planted in the centre of the Dior men's runway, chiseled faced young men strutted along in their three piece suits, the new designs by Kris Van Assche were stylish, practical, colourful and preppy. Some zips were placed on the leg, on a sleeve of a suit or roses and their shadows embroidered on various pieces.
These strong, Alpha urban looks, represented a vivid daytime wardrobe, offering baggy trousers with several pockets, boxed-short jackets, and parkas, some with camouflage print linings too.
Most of the shoes were made with rubber soles for comfort. This young, clean look mixed sophistication, luxury, rectangular angles with a refreshing aura and sport-like garments.
Kris Van Assche has solely focused on creating a Dior Homme range.His talent was reflected at Paris Men's Fashion Week, no doubt we will see more of his interesting and refreshing collections later in the year.
Monica Cummings
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Last Saturday, 13th June, the Institute of Contemporary Arts hosted the Thomas Pink S/S16 collection against a botanical backdrop.
The collection - which was showcased on both mannequins and models – was heavily inspired by the nonchalant mood of the 90’s brit pop era. A 1970 Peter Schlesinger photograph of David Hockney and Cecil Beaton reclining casually on rattan furniture and surrounded by potted pelargoniums and begonias was a starting point for the British label’s S/S16 collection, and the brand paid homage to the photo with its off-beat botanical set.
London has always been a leading figure in the world of fashion and Head of Design, Frederik Williams, says that the collection “celebrates Britain’s charming and eccentric character”. Tradition and rebellion are merged by the slim silhouettes and punchy colours – indigo, pink, turquoise and citrus – while prints come in everything from Bengal stripes to checks of varying sizes.
The collection also draws inspiration from Scotland and its vibrant landscapes. Tartans are inspired by the blue skies and the colours reflected off the stretches of untouched land.
With British summer in mind, outerwear includes lined blazers in wool and tweed linen, as well as a very practical reversible jacket and a reversible rain mac.
The collection ends by referencing yet another iconic British scene: the Blackpool seaside. The colour palette of pinks, turquoise and citrus shades continues, this time on linen shirting, silk pocket squares and patterned socks which capture the bright mood of the town.
Written By Jodie Dewberry
For more information www.thomaspink.com
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Last Saturday, 13th June, the Institute of Contemporary Arts hosted the Thomas Pink S/S16 collection against a botanical backdrop.
The collection - which was showcased on both mannequins and models – was heavily inspired by the nonchalant mood of the 90’s brit pop era. A 1970 Peter Schlesinger photograph of David Hockney and Cecil Beaton reclining casually on rattan furniture and surrounded by potted pelargoniums and begonias was a starting point for the British label’s S/S16 collection, and the brand paid homage to the photo with its off-beat botanical set.
London has always been a leading figure in the world of fashion and Head of Design, Frederik Williams, says that the collection “celebrates Britain’s charming and eccentric character”. Tradition and rebellion are merged by the slim silhouettes and punchy colours – indigo, pink, turquoise and citrus – while prints come in everything from Bengal stripes to checks of varying sizes.
The collection also draws inspiration from Scotland and its vibrant landscapes. Tartans are inspired by the blue skies and the colours reflected off the stretches of untouched land.
With British summer in mind, outerwear includes lined blazers in wool and tweed linen, as well as a very practical reversible jacket and a reversible rain mac.
The collection ends by referencing yet another iconic British scene: the Blackpool seaside. The colour palette of pinks, turquoise and citrus shades continues, this time on linen shirting, silk pocket squares and patterned socks which capture the bright mood of the town.
Written By Jodie Dewberry
For more information www.thomaspink.com