What else would we expect? Pam Hogg’s AW16 collection pushed the boundaries even more - yes, it was possible - with a sexualised storm of attitude at Freemasons Hall during London Fashion Week.
Sky high platforms, of course, accompanied models clad in skin tight PVC catsuits as they strutted down the catwalk, covered in weapon like studs and spikes. Stars made their cameo once more, and splattered paint prints reminded us that this fashion game is art. A form of expression. Something that Pam Hogg does extremely well - expressionism. However extreme.
The collection is dark, stormy and overtly sexy. She’s holding nothing back.
Models had everything on show with mesh body suits appliquéd with stars and a stripe to cover what can barely be left to the imagination.
Did you catch The Brit Awards? Then you would have seen Hogg’s iconic model Sadie Pinn shock the audience with an impromptu appearance. Skimpy. Bold. Statement. It’s all about the shock factor.
Pam Hogg does punk, yet still throws a spanner in the mix once in a while. This time, with umbrella skirts and splashes of red, yellow and acid green. The living dolls she creates allow for total fantasy dressing. Floor length gold dress or skin tight black mesh? It’s your call.
It’s this feminine celebration of androgyny that Hogg has become known for, and each year the crowd gets bigger. What can she possibly do next? Perhaps dainty pink dresses and ballerina flats? That would throw everyone off… Pam Hogg gone pretty? Yeah, probably not.
Belstaff took us up North as they turned the dreary Ewer Street Arches into an artic terrain as the backdrop to showcase their Autumn-Winter 2016 collection.
The vast monochrome collection is full of fur and leather, and matches style with comfort and protection from the elements. The modular hoods and linings keep you warm, protect you from the rain and keep you looking your best. It’d look great on while hiking up a mountain, but equally as amazing on a walk down the streets of London in January.
I don’t believe, practicality should take precedence over style unless you live in extreme weather conditions. However, a successful collection is one in which these two elements co-exist harmoniously, as Belstaff has well achieved in their Arctic themed menswear. Aptly titled "Heading North", the AW16 collection combines Belstaff's heritage designs with the durability of cold-weather gear, thereby providing the warmest winter wardrobe.
To highlight Belstaff's approach to the collection, the brick railway arches on Ewer Street became the backdrop for a bleak and frosty scene, complete with snow and slate underfoot, and jaggered snow covered boulders adding the rugged vibe, complete with Harley Davidson military motorcycles and a converted Triumph Tiger XCX fit for the frosty conditions. The models, too, appeared set for a winter expedition, clothed in the cosiest outerwear, including wax-cotton jackets with detachable fur and shearling trims, duck-down parka jackets with fur-trimmed hoods, and water-repellent wool and cashmere overcoats. This is an autumn/winter collection that takes its season seriously, illustrating a journey that takes you through tough terrains, snowy mountains and icy glaciers in comfort and style, considering the weather we’ve been having lately, the pieces were perfect for surviving a British winter just as much as an expedition.
This season, new heights were reached quite literally as the theme of the collection focused on high altitude adventure riding. In a way, Belstaff are lucky in that they can pin collections to aspects of their moto/adventure/military heritage, but to pull it off in a luxury manner that doesn’t alienate old-school Belstaff fans is no easy feat. That said, Dyhr and his team are making it look easy. For AW16, detailing was key: rib cuffs, snow skirts, storm bibs, fur-lined hoods, all applied to the brand’s growing collection of iconic jacket styles in both wax cotton and leather.
Never straying too far from the signature outerwear styles pioneered by Belstaff, this season focused on technical precision and adaptability for versatile weather conditions. Removable membranes and detachable shearling are examples of obvious climate changing features, however the brand has been developing technically advanced nylon/fleece combinations for hoodies and lightweight cashmere for motorcycle scarves. Biker jackets come in oiled Nubuck styles filled with down, while powder white four-pocket parkas feature fur-trimmed hoods and engineered wool and nylon linings to insulate. Other styles to come in a variety of leathers, water repellent wools and nylons include the classic Speedmaster, Aviator and a rendered 1950’s style Riding jacket adapted for today’s modern motorcycle rider.
Key accessories were developed for Belstaff’s latest collection, aptly named ‘The Masters’, including six bag style shapes in 3 various fabrications, including waxy leather and rough textured nylon.
Belstaff was chosen as a sole partner to celebrate the new 'Zoolander 2' film during London Collections Men with the creation of a bespoke Ciroc cocktail conjuring up both the cold and Zoolanders classic pose 'Blue Steel', which was being served in abundance. A cocktail which was simply as creative as the collection itself.
Maharishi’s Devotional uniform and habits: ll AW 16 collection previewed last Saturday at London Collections men, bringing 90’s nostalgia to the catwalk. A specialist in military fashion, Maharishi’s ‘utility chic’ pieces epitomized uniformity, street wear, and even tribalism.
The graphic camouflage references and rustic colour palette allowed technology to meet nature, reflecting much of the brands previous collections. The loose silhouettes also reflect ongoing themes of religious devotion and contemporary gang member style… take the robe like jackets inspired by Tibetan Buddest monks, Military overalls and badges. Not to mention every model wore a pair of Hi Tech Army training shoes known to be England and Germany’s long term supplier.
The fusion of complex subcultures and moral codes all embody the idea of East meeting west, the collection pushes boundaries and ruffles the norms of what is expected on today’s high fashion catwalks.